Sakteng
Wildlife Sanctuary comprise of Merak and Sakteng Gewogs under Trashigang
district. Merak valley is approximately 5 hours drive from Trashigang town. Start
of the journey will be greeted by majestic Trashigang Dzong overlooking the
Dangmechu River flawlessly making its way via deep narrow gorge formed over the
eons.
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| Trashigang Dzong (photo credit Google) |
An
hour drive through the Chir Pine forest along the bank of Gamrichu River,
travelers will reach the satellite town of Ranjung. At Ranjung one must not miss to visit the Rangjung
Woesel Choling Monastery of Dhujom Dharma Linage founded by the H.E. Garab Rinpoche. Town experiences maximum
number of visitors at the month of February to attend annual Drupchen and
unique Tsechu organized by the Monastery.
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| Ranjung Woesel Choling Monastery (photo credit Google) |
Ranjung
town is located in the base of deep Chir Pine valley and it’s humid and hot
during the summer. It is the nearest town from where nearby settlements of Radhi,
Phonmgey, Changmey, Chaling, Merak and Sakteng comes for shopping.
Taking
a right turn from main gate of the monastery, travelers needs to take uphill
journey via middle of the paddy field of Radhi valley for another 30 minutes before stopping at Khardung
village. Radhi is famous for their local
rice throughout the nation and the valley is term as Rice bowl of the eastern
Bhutan. Summer journey will be welcomed with lush green paddy fields and in
autumn valley comes to life with conspicuous beauty formed by different colors
and atmosphere filled with fresh aroma of the matured grains.
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| Valley of Phongmey and Radhi |
Kardung
Nunnery is an institute under the management of H.E Garab Rinpoche. It is
surrounded by the mixture of oak forest and premises consist of monastery with
finely prepared Buddhist arts and not less than hundred nuns practice the
Buddhism. From the wide open veranda of the monastery a beautiful terraced
valley of Phongmey can be viewed.
Bumpy
ride take its toll with end of blacktopped road from Khardung village. From the junction, Merak is approximately 37
kilometers which is equivalent to 3 hours zigzag uphill drive over an unpaved
farm road. There are two different road which leads to Merak; road via
Charbaling and road via Shetemy. Road
via Charbling is shorter by few kilometers but slippery at time of rain and
snow in comparison to the road via Shetmey. Therefore, it is not advisable to
ply the former unless the travelers are interested to explore beautiful grazing
land of Charbaling. Both the roads are pliable only with 4WD vehicles with
higher ground clearance.
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| Road network to Merak |
Road
via Shetimey: About 5 km drive from the junction, travelers will reach
Toksingmang village and from there with additional 3 to 4 km drive a milestone
scribbled with the word Zhukthri will be visible. If you are traveling by local
taxi, driver or co-passenger might make you aware of the place if not Zhukthrii
literally means the couch or resting chair and it is associated with the legend
of Ama Jomo. Presence of stone
resembling the couch surrounded by many prayer flags above the road is consider
as a resting seat of Amo Jomo thus the
place derived its name.
Progressing
with uphill drive, gradual transition of the vegetation types will be distinct with
warm broadleaved to cool broadleaved and later entering to Rhododendron forest
at Shetemy and Fir zone at Merak at an altitude of 3500 m.
Sighting
of various kind of blossom along the roadside and air filled with pleasant aroma
of Magnolia make traveler forget about the bumpy ride.
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| Rhododendron blossoms |
More
or less halfway to the Merak, traveler will reach to wide open grazing land of
Shetemy. It is a winter grazing land of Merak and is surrounded by the
Rhododendrons with mesmerizing scenic beauty. If travelers are in need of rest,
Shetemy is one of the best places to consider resting while enjoying the
beauty.
From
Shetemy, travelers will also see the grazing land of Charbaling with several
huts above major land slides.
After
a near to hour drive through icy atmosphere, traveler will reach to
Mindu-laptsa. Literally laptsa means a pass in local dialect and Mindu-laptse
is one of the pass located at approximately 3500 m altitude in between Merak
and Shetemy. On reaching the pass every first time visitor to Merak valley
should sing or dance to please Ama Jomo as Merak falls under her jurisdiction.
So, if you are planning to visit Merak I would suggest getting yourself
prepared with a song or dance. Doesn’t matter what kind of song you want to
sing the choice is yours but somehow you cannot escape. Ama Jomo is known be a
local deity of the region and entering the valley without honoring her by
singing or dancing is believed to bring bad weather in the valley making your
trip unpleasant. So, during your visit
if someone requests you to sing or dance do not get upset because it is a part
of their local tradition.
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| Stone work on the way to Merak |
Following
a brief singing or dancing at Mindu-laptsa and about an hour drive along the
Nyerama river valley, you will reach Gyengo village located a miles away from
the Merak village. “Gyengo” literally means a “on the head of the steep landscape”
and was derived from its strategic location right at the end of the steep track
prior to the road connectivity.
Ten
minutes drive from Gyengo through wide open alpine landscape you will finally
reach to striking valley of Merak, a land of Brokpa. Brokpa are the inhabitants
of Merak and Sakteng who are known for their distinct culture and tradition in
the region.
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| Brokpa |
Limited
words of mine and photographs can
hardly portray the beauty and uniqueness of the Merak located in heart of the
alpine valley. So, it will be worth one should visit and feel the beauty and
uniqueness of the valley which still shows no influence of western culture.
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| Merak village |
In
Merak there is a camping facility for the visitors who are fond of outdoor
camping and farm house/homestay for those who wish to experience Brokpa’s way
of living. Nominal fees will be charged for availing both types of facilities
to help communities generate revenue from the tourism.
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| Outdoor camping facilities |
P.S: Non national tourist has to pay Nu. 1000.00 as special permit fee to visit Merak
